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We use butter, heavy cream, corn starch instead of flour, and then we mix all the cheeses in and then refrigerate it for people to reheat at home.” Our cheese sauce here doesn’t have the same bechamel beginning. “At Pasta Louise, we have cheese sauce in the refrigerator so people can make it at home.

“I worked a really long time on the recipe for cheese sauce.” Arevalo does it two ways: at Homeroom, the sauce began as a bechamel and would then be heated in a pan and mixed with selected cheeses before being tossed with fresh pasta and baked. For similarly strategic reasons, alternatives include other small and groovy pasta shapes such as conchiglie (shells) and campanelle (bells).“I’ve made a lot of mac and cheese,” Arevalo begins. Its curves and grooves catch and hold onto sauce, maximizing cheesiness with every bite. Elbow macaroni is designed to hold thick, creamy sauces. Cheese sauce is too heavy for many pastas, causing them to clump. More than a matter of tradition or aesthetics, it's a question of engineering. Since then, elbow macaroni has remained the standard. However, it was Kraft that truly popularized the dish made with elbow macaroni when it launched its boxed version in 1937. In 1802, he was said to have served mac and cheese at a state dinner. Mac and cheese allegedly arrived in America courtesy of Thomas Jefferson, who returned from a European jaunt laden down with pasta recipes - and a pasta-making machine.

Known as hörni, these ancestors of elbow macaroni were shaped like the horns of Alpine ibex.

Graham traces mac and cheese's probable beginnings to the Swiss Alps where shepherds often combined home-made cheeses with pasta. In " Macaroni cheese's mysterious origins," pasta sleuth Adam H.